Prior to the release of the Edgemere Reserve earlier this month, Martenero was a microbrand that had somewhat remained on the horological periphery for me. I was aware of what the four-year-old company was up to as I knew several people that touted them as a leader in the wave of U.S.-based, small-scale brands that crescendoed in the mid-2010s, but despite founder John Tarantino’s location not far from WatchTime HQ in Manhattan, I found myself missing out on Martenero’s releases time and time again.

When the Edgemere Reserve was announced, I knew my repeated oversight had to end. After four years and six different collections of varying styles, the latest Martenero release is the most complex addition to the growing catalog and is also the clearest representation of the brand’s maturing identity. It is able to maintain the playfulness seen in the original Edgemere with a dash of the “grown-up” appeal and symmetrical design seen in the most recent Kerrison series. The updated Edgemere has the same nautical aplomb that its time-only sibling was lauded for. Like all previous Martenero entries, there is a number of color options to choose from. The watch I wore for around a week had a dark blue dial with red, white, and turquoise accents. Those familiar with the brand should recognize the similar hues at work throughout all five models.

Right off the bat, you can tell that the Edgemere Reserve has had a lot of thought put into not only its a...