Patek Philippe has revisited 2016?s controversial Calatrava Pilot?s watch, the reference 5524, and released two new versions in red gold.
By Chris Hall

The 5524 attracted fierce reactions from all sides when it launched; the first Patek Philippe of the modern era to have anything to do with aviation, its styling was a significant departure from recent form. It boasted oversized numerals more reminiscent of a Zenith, and some of the most unusual pushers seen on a watch ? remember that despite initial appearances, this isn?t a chronograph; the two pushers, which need a quarter-turn to lock and unlock them, are used to advance or regress the second timezone indicator.

There is some reasoning behind the idea that a modern-day pilot?s watch makes more sense with a travel time complication than a chronograph, but Patek Philippe was undoubtedly out on a limb with efforts to tie the watch to a glorious heritage in aviation watches. However, the watch was incredibly well received commercially ? partly by speculators anticipating a rare flop, partly by fans pleased to see the brand do something different from the norm.
And now ? we really shouldn?t be surprised ? Patek has followed it up with a version cased in red gold. The dial switches from deep blue to dark brown, the numerals change colour to a rich cream, and the watch is offered on a lighter brown leather strap, but is otherwise aesthetically unchanged.

You?ve got the same cathedral hands, with stencil hand for the ...