The best part of any Baselworld (and I apologize for saying this the one year it isn?t happening) is not the big, impressive releases from major brands, though those get the most attention, it?s the rare unexpected gem from a brand that likely will go under everyone else?s radar. In 2019, that watch for me was the Squale T-183. Featuring a case made of layered black carbon fiber and red fiberglass, it was unexpected, exotic and oddly appealing. Best of all, despite the more decorative design, it maintained the DNA of Squale?s quintessential tool diver, the 1521, giving it a rugged, sporty overall appearance.

Squale T-183

Case Material: Layered Carbon Fiber and Fiber Glass
Dial: Black
Dimensions: 42mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Water Resistance: 600 meters Crown: Screw-down             
Movement: Elaboré Sellita SW200
Strap/bracelet: Micro Fiber
Price: 1,250 CHF
Expected Release: Available Now

Fast forward to March 2020, and the T-183 is finally available, though with some changes. The case still utilizes the layered concept and boasts 60 ATM of water resistance, the bezel is still black DLC with a blacked-out ceramic insert, but the dial has been reconsidered to emphasize the red fiberglass. In lieu of pad-printed white lume, the T-183 now features applied markers with red lume fill, and hands that match. On a matte black dial, the design is now more aggressive, but also more ornamental, losing a bit of that tried-and-true tool diver feel.

Powering the...