Patek Philippe introduced the Nautilus in 1976. Since then, it?s become one of the brand?s most sought-after watches. In this feature from WatchTime’s August 2018 issue, we trace the evolution of the Nautilus through its 40+-year history.
When Patek Philippe introduced the Nautilus in 1976, it wasn?t the first luxury sports watch in steel. That was claimed by Audemars Piguet?s Royal Oak in 1972. But the Nautilus was positioned at an even higher price point, and the ads for the first model, Reference 3700, played on this idea, showing the watch with the tagline, ?One of the world?s costliest watches is made of steel.? The watch?s distinctive shape also drew attention. The bezel is neither round nor rectangular but is an octagon whose sides are curved outward. With a diameter of 42 mm, the Nautilus was ahead of its time in terms of size, and it was 3 mm larger than the Royal Oak. The Patek Philippe Nautilus remains one of most coveted luxury sports watches.
Gérald Genta, who designed the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet, brought his sketch for the Nautilus to Patek Philippe in 1974. The unusual case shape was inspired by a ship?s porthole, with a rounded octagonal bezel and ?ears? on the case for a hinge on one side and a closure on the other. Embossed horizontal grooves on the dial and the integrated metal bracelet added to the watch?s character and made it easy to recognize. At this time, Patek Philippe collections were almost exclusively comprised of elegant gold watch...