The first Breitling Chronomat made its debut in 1948, and instantly made history as the first wristwatch to incorporate the aviator’s slide-rule bezel that is now the hallmark of another Breitling model, the Navitimer. When the Chronomat was resurrected after a lengthy hiatus in 1984, Breitling’s 100th anniversary year, it had been substantially redesigned and became a collection mainstay in its own right. It is this 1980s version ? a mechanical pilots’ chronograph boldly launched into the teeth of the Quartz Crisis headwinds ? that inspires the latest and perhaps most anticipated relaunch of the new Breitling era, which began in earnest in 2017. Here’s the lowdown on the new Chronomat collection.

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition
Developed for Italy’s famed Frecce Tricolori aerial squadron, the 1984 Chronomat was clearly influenced by aviation style, as have been so many other Breitling timepieces, but it also appealed to auto racing fans with its tachymeter-scale flange and to yachting enthusiasts with its emblematic “rider tabs” at the quarter-hours on the rotating bezel that could be gripped easily to set countdown times with the stopwatch. Both elements are present in the new Chronomats, which also ramp up the retro charm with their distinctive “Rouleau” style integrated steel bracelets with butterfly clasps. Bonus: the rider tabs at 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock are intercha...